Sometimes the shortest trips stay with you the longest.
On a whim, with one free weekend and a toddler-sized bag packed, we set off for a 1-night escape to Ajodhya Hills in Purulia, not knowing that in just 24 hours, we’d walk under painted cliffs, meet mask-makers, chase waterfalls, and watch the sky turn pink from a hillside resort.
This was the kind of trip you don’t plan for months. This was the kind you just feel… and go.
The Drive: Red Roads & Snack Stops
We left early, music playing, snacks packed, and Little A already asking “Can you play Cocomelon?”
The landscape began to change soon after Purulia town — the roads turned a soft red, sal trees flanked us like a welcome party, and the air got that crisp, earthy smell you only find in tribal heartlands. Ajodhya Hills was summoning us, and we were rushing to embrace her!
We had a rough plan of the spots we wanted to visit, and honestly, we were overwhelmed at the harmonious creativity of Nature and Man!
Tip: The road from Jhalda can get patchy — start early and avoid night driving.
Stop 1: Pakhi Pahar – The Mountain That Speaks in Birds
Our first stop of Ajodhya Hills was Pakhi Pahar, or “Bird Hill” — a massive rock sculpture complex where local artists have carved and painted gigantic birds in flight, right into the cliff.
Standing below it, you feel tiny — like you’ve stumbled into a living fresco.
The hill is a canvas, the birds frozen mid-motion. Little A kept spotting “new ones” every few seconds. “That’s a parrot! That’s a flying peacock!” she declared, arms flapping, clearly in the moment.
The transformation of this hill began in the 1990s, led by renowned Bengali artist Chitta Dey and a group of his students from Kolkata’s Government Art College. Inspired by the migratory birds that soar above Purulia and the region’s deep connection to tribal life and nature, they set out to turn the bare cliff into an open-air sculpture gallery. Over 65 bird figures were carved into the rock over several years, using no heavy machinery, just chisels, hammers, and vision. The project was slow, painstaking, and entirely self-funded, driven by love for art and landscape.
Today, Pakhi Pahar is more than a tourist spot… it’s a symbol of human creativity meeting the permanence of nature. It draws visitors, trekkers, and photographers, but also stands as a quiet tribute to the birds that inspired it, and to the artists who dared to make stone fly.
Stop 2: Charida – The Village Where Faces Are Made
Tucked at the base of the Ajodhya Hills, Charida village in Purulia, West Bengal, is no ordinary village, it’s the soul of Chhau dance, where gods and demons are handcrafted in clay.
The art of Chhau mask-making began here over 150 years ago, under the patronage of the Baghmundi royal family, particularly King Madan Mohan Singh Deo. As Chhau dance evolved, blending martial arts, mythology, and theatre, performers needed something more than gestures to portray epic characters. That’s when the artisans of Charida began crafting stunning, larger-than-life masks… vivid, dramatic, and deeply symbolic.
Today, Charida is home to over 150 artisan families, many of whom have earned national and international recognition, including President’s Awards. The legacy of famed Chhau dancer Gambhir Singh Mura, who helped spotlight Purulia Chhau globally, is deeply rooted here.
Walking through Charida feels like stepping into a living gallery, masks of Ravana, Durga, and animal spirits dry under the sun, lining the walls like silent storytellers. Yet despite its cultural significance, this little village of Ajodhya Hills remains a hidden gem, deserving far more attention.
Charida isn’t just preserving tradition… it’s bringing mythology to life, one mask at a time.
Inside open-fronted mud houses, artists sat painting, shaping, and drying masks in rows. Red, gold, and peacock blue, each face told a story. Little A pointed at one and said, “That’s the lion who protects the mountain!” Honestly? It looked like it.
We bought some masks as keepsakes — the kind of souvenir you know will hold memories.
Stay at Kushal Palli: Where Luxury Meets the Hills
After these rather picturesque detours, we headed to our accomodation at Ajodhya Hills. Our stay was at the beautiful Kushal Palli Resort, tucked into the Ajodhya Hills like it grew there.
With sprawling gardens, tiled walkways, and architecture that echoes tribal and Raj-era influences, it felt like a destination in itself. Little A ran across the lawns like she owned them. We sipped welcome drinks with a view of the hills, already slower in breath and thought.
The room was cozy, the beds soft, and the only alarm clock was birdsong.
Stop 3: Chasing Waterfalls: Turga & Bamni
After lunch, we decided to explore again… With the afternoon cooling down, we headed toward the waterfalls.
Turga Falls
Hidden in the lush folds of the Ajodhya Hills, Turga Falls is where water meets wilderness in a spectacular dance. Fed by the Turga River, this multi-tiered waterfall cascades over rocky cliffs into clear natural pools, making it one of Purulia’s most enchanting spots.
Historically, Turga gained significance with the proposed Turga Pumped Storage Project, part of West Bengal’s push for renewable hydroelectric power. But long before turbines and blueprints, this place was sacred to local tribal communities… a site where Baha and Bandna festivals honored nature and water as divine forces. Stories still float around the hills: of forest spirits seen at dawn, and of waterfalls that whisper secrets to those who listen.
Today, Turga is both a weekend retreat and a cultural landmark, where history, mythology, and nature flow together like the falls themselves.
After a hike of about 500 concrete steps down the hill, Little A dipped her fingers in the icy water and shrieked with delight. We just stood there, letting the rush of water drown out the last echoes of city life.
Bamni Falls
Less visited but even more beautiful, Bamni Falls felt like a hidden treasure. We reached just before sunset, when the golden light hits the rocks just right. If you’re the kind of traveler who loves offbeat serenity… don’t skip this one.
Long ago, in the heart of Purulia’s dense forests, lived Bamni… a tribal maiden famed for her beauty and deep bond with nature. One misty dawn, she vanished while gathering herbs near a roaring cascade. The villagers whispered that forest spirits, enchanted by her purity, claimed her soul to guard the wild forever. Since then, the waterfall has been known as Bamni Falls. Even today, some say if you listen closely on quiet evenings, you’ll hear her gentle whispers in the wind… the spirit of Bamni, still watching over her sacred forest.
Stop 4: The Tale of Two Dams
Upper Dam
Tucked amidst the rolling slopes of the Ajodhya Hills, the Upper Dam, officially known as the Murguma Dam, was built in the early 1980s as part of a broader irrigation and hydro-project strategy in Purulia district. What began as a purely functional structure, to store monsoon rainwater for dry seasons, slowly became a quiet marvel of engineering and harmony.
Surrounded by forested hills and tribal villages, the Upper Dam is more than just a reservoir; it’s a life source. It feeds not just the fields of Purulia, but also the quiet soul of the region.
On misty mornings, locals whisper stories of how the waters once swallowed a whole hamlet during its creation… a reminder that progress often has a price. Yet today, the dam stands serene, reflecting the sky and echoing the chirps of birds… a hidden retreat for nature lovers, and a vital vein in Purulia’s lifeline.
The best part? We could take our car right on the Dam road. It was covered in mist, and made us feel we’ve been transported to another world altogether!
Lower Dam
As the Upper Dam quietly holds its waters, the Lower Dam, known as the Panchet Hill Foot Dam, takes on a more dynamic role, channeling the water downwards in a series of cascading steps, finally feeding the surrounding lands and connecting to the larger Panchet Dam system built earlier in 1959 under the Damodar Valley Corporation (DVC).
This was part of India’s post-independence dream to tame the flood-prone Damodar River, once called the “Sorrow of Bengal.” Though smaller than its mighty cousins, the Lower Dam is loved for its aesthetic charm… framed by dense sal forests and the red soil that gives Purulia its character. It’s a favorite stop for travelers, with many saying the view from the Lower Dam at sunset feels like the land is exhaling after a long day.
For locals of Ajodhya Hills, it’s both a picnic spot and a lifeline… where utility meets beauty, and time seems to slow down by the water’s edge.
Evening Surprise: Chhau Comes Alive Amidst Warm Lights
Just when we thought the day couldn’t hold anything more, Kushal Palli gave us a little gift — a live Chhau dance performance in the lounge area after sunset. It’s like the surprise gifts kept coming from Ajodhya Hills!
As the drums began to beat and the torches lit up, performers in vibrant, towering Chhau masks stepped onto the open stage… lions, gods, demons, and warriors brought to life with stomping feet and powerful, acrobatic moves.
It wasn’t just dance — it was drama, myth, and ritual rolled into a rhythm that felt ancient and alive.
Little A watched wide-eyed, half in awe, half in confusion: “Is that a superhero or a monster?” “Both,” we told her. “That’s the fun of it.”
The dancers moved with such grace and strength that even the adults around us sat silent, mesmerized. You could feel the tribal heartbeat of Purulia in every step.
By the time the final act ended… with the iconic Ek Chaala Maa Durga with Mahishashur underneath, and her 4 kids proudly standing abreast… it was met with an equally burst of applause and loud cheers of “Bolo Durga Maai Ki JOY” — the sky was dark, the air was cool, and the magic had fully settled in.
Did You Know? Chhau is a UNESCO-recognized dance form blending martial arts, storytelling, and classical themes. The masks are handcrafted in Charida, where every dancer has their favorite artisan.
It felt like the perfect way to close our night… not just watching a cultural performance, but experiencing the soul of a land that speaks through movement, color, and myth.
Last Morning: Last Walks & Long Dips
The next morning was unhurried. A relaxed dip in the pool, a slow breakfast, and a final stroll along the resort’s trail… it was magical. Finally, we took one last look at the view, before checking out and heading home.
Little A clutched her tiny Ganesha mask all the way.
We’d only stayed one night, but somehow, it felt like we’d collected memories of a lifetime… in the best way possible.
Stop 4: Marble Lake
As we bid farewell to the beautiful Purulia, we had an adventure. On our way back from the majestic Ajodhya Hills, we stumbled upon a hidden gem that felt like a secret whispered by nature itself… the breathtaking Marble Lake in Purulia. Tucked away amidst rugged hills and old marble quarries, this crystal-clear lake shimmered under the afternoon sun like a slice of paradise untouched by the world.
The stillness of the water mirrored the sky so perfectly, it felt surreal… as if we had walked into a dream. There were no crowds, no noise, just the soft rustle of leaves and the occasional bird song, making it a serene escape from the chaos of city life. It’s hard to believe such a stunning spot remains relatively unknown.
Marble Lake deserves to be celebrated, preserved, and shared… a place that should be on every traveler’s map before it becomes the next big sensation.
Quick Budget Snapshot (Luxury Light)
Item
Cost (INR)
Stay at Kushal Palli (1 night)
₹7,000 – ₹9,500 (standard room with meals)
Fuel (from Kolkata & back)
₹2,500 approx
Food/snacks outside
₹500 approx
Entry + local shopping
₹500 – ₹800
Total (for 2.5 people)
₹8,000 – ₹9,000
Family Tip: Kushal Palli is very child-friendly — open lawns, safe walkways, and space to explore. Totally toddler-approved.
Why This One-Night Trip Was So Worth It
Sometimes you don’t need a full itinerary. Sometimes, you just need a mountain, a mask, a waterfall, and a little time to breathe again.
Ajodhya Hills gave us all that… and more, in just one night. It reminded us how little it takes to feel fully alive again.
If you want to read some more stories about short weekend trips in Bengal, read our blog on Joypur Forest.
